ShapeOko 3d Printer

I have modified my ShapeOko cnc machine to be a 3d printer. It took some time to setup and calibrate but I am able to print.



9 thoughts on “ShapeOko 3d Printer

  1. Pingback: DIY 3D Printing « TATAAA Vox

  2. I am very interested in what you are doing here. I am planning a modified shapeoko build and would like to make an interchagable 3D printer head. Which electronics are you using for this? the Arduino/ GRBL shield or Ramps? and do you use the same electronics when you are cutting too?

    btw GOOD JOB

    • I took the unconventional route and started with converting the shapeoko project to a printer first and then getting the cnc working.

      I decided to use the RAMPS board for controlling the printer. Since the electronics are a superset of the GRBL setup this made sense at the time. In hindsight I had no idea what I was getting into. It turns out that the grbl/cnc protocol is different than the printer/marlin protocol. Since I am getting the printing working on the shapeoko first this was not a problem.

      I am now working on a gcode converter to translate the cnc code into printer code so that i can use pronterface for both cncing and printing

      I have the first pass working and I am in the process of tweaking the code. I will publish this as I get closer to a release.

      i am also working on adapters for the hardware so that I can quickly switch from printing to cnc to other setups. These changes will be both mechanical and electronic. More on this as I have things to show.

  3. We have built one using the same setup, however we are having a bit of trouble getting the settings in the software to work. I would really appreciate any help on this. Most of the problem seems to be with the Z-axis being completely inverted, and the print starting at the top of the envelope and working down. Thanks in advance. Mike

    • This sounds like one of two problems. Either the stepper motor connector is backwards which will have the motor turn in the opposite direction or the settings in the Arduino configuration is not set properly.

      I would start by going into pronterface and nudging the Z Axis. If it is not moving in the proper direction you can either flip the z axis connector on the RAMPS board or change the “#define INVERT_Z_DIR” setting in the Configuration.h file.

      I would also check the homing direction. If this is backwards when the same rules apply to the connector and/or the setting in the Confuration.h file.

      • Hi there.

        I’m in the same boat.

        Shapeboko 2 (Minus any spindle)
        Ramps 1.4 board, Driver DRV8825, Arduino 2560 Mega. ‘Full’ LCD control panel, direct drive printhead (MK7?). I have 2 12V 360W power supplies (using only 1 right now), and one 24V 500W power supply. I also have an 18×18 inch heated bed (not deployed yet.)

        Only one 12V supply is being used, as I am struggling with getting steppers to respond to commands. I adjusted reference voltage to 0.7 on each stepper.

        I believe the DRV8825 steppers are set to 1/32 microstepping. I have all 3 jumpers in place for microstepping on the RAMPS 1.4 board.

        I searched and finally found a marlin version which had comments to enable for the ‘FULL’ LCD controller. Upon compiling and flashing, it displays wonderfully but isn’t moving the steppers at all. They just seem to hold position. I adjusted the vref to 0.70 on drivers (DRV8825). I assume these are set to 1/32 microstepping with all jumpers in place on ramps. I adjusted the steps/mm in configuration.h as well. I also tried other smaller drivers A4988 adjusted at 0.6V (came with my RAMPS 1.4/LCDcombo kit from ebay) no go. 😦

        Is there a working sketch you’d be willing to share? I have everything in place, but get no movement. I tried eveything within my skill-set other than handing over my ramps board for someone to flash and try on their printer. I guess I’m solo locally.


      • It has been a while since I went through this process but I had the same issue. Have you made sure that the wiring for the steppers are correct. I may have had an issue with two of the wires that were swapped. 

        I also have two power supplies powering the system. One supply was not enough to drive the steppers and the hot end and heated bed.

  4. I have double and tripe checked wiring for at least the shapeoko motors. I have cat5 cable running as a test jumper soldered to Dupont jumpers which i know is pretty small wire. I figured for testing it would be fine. I dont plan to run on that. When I first got the LCD I thought it was bad. I had no idea what I was really taking on apparently. I never even held an arduino before. lol. Then the marlin that came on the vendor (Folgertech) didn’t even have an option for the FULL LCD panel. I used others from the sketch and it would only beep. Now, the motor thing is driving me bats. One A4988 driver shorted the supply on insertion. Suspecting things not so healthy I got another bundle. Then 5 DRV8825’s. I hooked up all the endstop switches and temp sensors, to clear any errors (I think) that the marlin may be set to observe.

    Can pronterface override marlin settings to move motors? (as in overide endstop errors). I think I will just solder the 18 gauges wire to the duponts directly at a connector. Thats what my endgame was anyway (but inside a housing where I can unplug from Grbl or RAMPS, both independent).

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s